DAY 2
I woke up to a sunny but cold morning. I guess that the front had not passed over yet and the higher altitudes were affecting the temperature. I grabbed breakfast and coffee packed the bike and installed the heated gear and shoved off.
Let me say this about heated gear.
If you are a purest, a “hardcore” biker and feel that it is not true to the spirit of the road and riding to wear heated gear, all I have to say to you is……Kiss my ass!
As I passed some of you on the road and could see frozen ice stalactites on you dripping noses, it occurred to me that as I was blazing by at 30 degrees going 75 miles per hour climbing the mountain passes all day long and RIDING, that perhaps my warm heated gear made the difference in my enjoying the day or just surviving it. No matter. I was in bliss and fully enjoying the scenery.
Nuff said.
As was traveling along passing through Flagstaff I was struggling on getting that Route 66 feeling back. Not much to remind me of the old mother road as Flagstaff was converted into a tourist town and the trappings never appealed to me. Just as I was leaving town the following sign caught my eye.
My brother Alan got me turned onto Route 66 by taking me to Oatman, he started this whole thing. His blog name is Mr. Zip and the sign on Route 66 in Kingman Arizona is a tribute to his great wife who puts up with all his crap and allows him to make these trips.
Thanks Miz. Zip! Check out his blog. http://www.mrzip66.com/category/route-66/
Wonder if Mr. Zip gets a "piece of the pie"?
Not far down the road and almost at the edge of town was a building that caught my eye. I would have never come by this way were it not for this trek.
The Real Deal
It was still early in the morning but I had to stop and get a beer and talk to the bartended of the history of this place. The Museum club was built in 1931 and a building in the true spirit of this road. Classic architecture and style of one of the most famous Route 66 Landmarks. It got its start as a very odd tourist attraction. Built in 1931 by Dean Eldredge as a museum to house his extensive taxidermied animals and curiosities. Early Route 66 tourists would stop at his museum and for a mere 25 cents would be shown some of the strangest oddities of nature. In 1936 after Dean passed away his museum was turned into a night club ~ that’s polite for “roadhouse”
Sign on the Outside
The Vintage bar says "Belly up boys"
Looking up in the rafters
Can you feel it now?
You SHOULD support this piece of history and drop in and spend some money. I am going to make sure that I come back this way on a Friday or Saturday night and see what the band and nightlife look like.
As I passed on down the road I wanted to see some of the landmarks that Alan had talked about in his blog. His detail gives a lot of the history and flavor so I won’t go into the detail of every point but if you want more on Route 66 check out his site.
Twin arrows always looked interesting to me and I was surprised at the state of disarray and the amount of vandalism that was there. I am sure that it’s about the same as when Alan blogged it but I was impressed with the small Diner close by. I love that roadside feel to a bar and a few stools to grab a bite or some coffee and be on you way.
The Diner
Two Guns is a place to come back and explore. There are two parts. Just off Highway 40 are the tourist trap ruins of a gas station and campground. I looked this over but had no feel for it and was about to leave. Just off in the distance and down the old Route 66 roadway (it looks like the frontage road) are some stone buildings. Not with the adventure yesterday and my bike getting stuck fresh on my mind I really was nervous about going “off road” again, but decided what the hell. As I worked my way down the road closer to the old stone buildings the place started to take shape. These buildings are fascinating and the concrete bridge across the gorge lends to the feel of the old highway. You can really visualize the stop there and what it had to offer. I would love to see this place restored, and wonder what the function of each building was.
I had to get a photo of the bike and the “Mountain Lions” façade. Sure enough if you walk down the stairs you see the animal pens. I can see the throngs of fascinated kids staring in as they stopped by on the long trip and checked out the local oddities. My kids would never give this a second look as they would be to busy to look up from the DVD they were watching or the Text message they were creating to their friends telling them how bored they were or how stupid there parents are.
The Bridge and other out buildings along the old Route 66
Great Place. And Yes, Alan, lets come back and explore this place more.
Moving down the road I decided to turn off and check out the meteor crater. I have see this many times on travel information on Arizona but never got this way to check it out. I saw it on the Movie “Star Man” with Jeff Bridges and thought that is merited a look see.
As I approached I could see the impact crater take shape like some extinct prehistoric volcano cone. Pretty cool to think that the impact took place over 50,000 years ago.
Approaching the crater you see the impressive size
The giant meteor impacted the earth with the equivalent force of 20 million tons of dynamite, changing the landscape around the point of impact and leaving a vast crater 2.4 miles in circumference and 550 feet deep. The crater floor could actually hold 20 football fields. The high desert climate kept erosion at a minimum and now Meteor Crater stands not only as the first proven meteorite impact crater on earth, but also is marveled at how well preserved it is.
A company has done a great job with building a visitor center and campground so it is a good stop if you like this kind of thing.
As I walked up to the entrance I debated going in as the admission fee is $15.00. Funny thing how that caused me pause but the $10.00 Omelet this morning seemed worth it. After deliberating for a few minutes I figured what the hell and went in. Now it is done nicely and if you are a rock or space fan you could spend hours there. I watched the movie, walked through the displays and snapped some pictures and blew through the gift shop on my way out.
Walkways and telescopes give a great view
Pretty steep and rugged
As I drove out and approached Highway 40, I noticed a stone structure down the old Route 66 roadway. The road was in pretty bad shape but after seeing the buildings at Two Guns I had to get a look. As I got closer the building started to take place. Massive sandstone walls with little mortar. I wondered if it was a jail or tribal building.
The old Route 66 road looking East. Stone Building on Horizon
Jerks with Grafitti maring a great artifact
a good sized building
This is Art!
My curiosity got the best of me so I stopped at the campground down the road and asked what the building was. She informed me that it was the old visitor’s center for the crater.
UPDATE
My Brother (Mr. Zip) found this picture and information on the Old Visitors Center. Turns out it was call an “Observatory”
Crater Observatory circa 1942
Observatory now
The photo was listed in Jack Rittenhouse’s Route 66 Guidebook published in 1946.
“Built by D.M. Barringer during the hey-day of Route 66, the view from the observation tower was disappointing. I’m sure the Observatory was located this far from the impact crater because it was right on Route 66 and could lure travelers in. “Easy Off – Easy On” even back then. For 25 cents one could view the crater through a telescope, and if the weather was clear – actually see it!”
Now THIS cool structure should be restored!
As I approached Winslow Arizona I had to change the tunes to the Eagles oldies for nostalgia’s sake.
Well, I’m running down the road
tryin’ to loosen my load
I’ve got seven women on my mind,
Four that wanna own me,
Two that wanna stone me,
One says she’s a friend of mine,
Take it easy, take it easy
Don’t let the sound of your own wheels
Drive you crazy
Lighten up while you still can
Don’t even try to understand
Just find a place to make your stand
and take it easy
Well, I’m a standing on a corner
in Winslow Arizona
I’m such a fine sight to see
It’s a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed
Ford slowin’ down to take a look at me
Come on, baby, don’t say maybe
I gotta know if your sweet love is
gonna save me
We may lose and we may win though
we will never be here again
so open up, I’m climbin’ in,
take it easy…”Alright”
Well I’m running down the road trying to loosen
my load, got a world of trouble on my mind
lookin’ for a lover who won’t blow my
cover, she’s so hard to find
Take it easy, take it easy
don’t let the sound of your own wheels make you crazy,
come on baby, don’t say maybe
I gotta know if your sweet love is gonna save me,ooh
Oh well you know we got it easy
We oughta take it easy, yeah
Turning off the road and driving through town I was fascinated at the designs and style of the buildings and wondered their purpose.
an old "motor court" Motel
A mansion in it's day i'm sure
This is the La Posada Hotel, calle the “last great railroad hotel.” Built in 1929 for the Santa Fe Railway, this is definatly an “oasis” on Route 66.
I stopped and walked through the gardens and took in the spirit of the grounds and building
La Posada Hotel
La Posada’s story weaves together two extraordinary visions. It begins with Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter and Fred Harvey, who hired Colter to design the hotel. It embodied her vision, from its architecture down to its finely crafted details. But La Posada closed in 1957; for the next 40 years, its future remained tenuous. Enter Allan Affeldt and his wife Tina Mion. Affeldt heard about the hotel and purchased it in 1997 after much negotiation, bringing with him a strong vision and commitment for returning La Posada to Colter’s original concept. Restoration started immediately and continues today, thanks to Affeldt’s efforts and the support of local preservationists, hotel guests, and a talented team of artisans and craftsmen.
I am going to make this a stop on my next time through to live the bygone days.
In the center of town the city had obviously build a tourist trap memorializing the Glen Frey sand Jackson Brown song.
The tourist "trap"
The mural close up (see the girl in the flatbed Ford?)
Well, I’m a standing on a corner
in Winslow Arizona
I’m such a fine sight to see
It’s a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed
Ford slowin’ down to take a look at me
About this time I am thinking that this whole tourist trap is getting old. I want to see History and feel the road not look at worthless trinkets and cheep memorabilia. I started to walk off and saw the crowds gathering and took a change of heart.
This IS what Route 66 was all about. Stopping and browsing the oddities and trinkets of the road. In our fast paced society were have forgotten that in the simple times gone by that is what life was all about. Stopping and enjoying what each little city had to offer and buying a simple souvenir to remember the trip.
I guess I am just spoiled and needed to remember that.
I did pause to check out the Jackrabbit Trading Post but there were so many bikers there I ran through the place took a few pictures and bolted. Remember me and large groups of touristy bikers with their leathers and Rolex watches.
lots of bikers on a Saturday outing.
Lined up to get their picture on the Jackrabbit...
Next stop on the Route was through Joseph City Arizona outside of Holbrook. As I drove through this little town I was impressed how it looks like hundreds of little Mormon pioneer towns in Utah. Same feel same architecture. At the end of town I saw a marker which I am a sucker for anyway and took a picture. Mystery ended.
Joseph City Marker
I as I approached Holbrook Arizona it was getting late afternoon. The weather was warming and I wanted to check out a few sights and then get settled in for the night. I decided to camp out tonight as I had packed all the camping equipment this far and figured that I might as well put it to use.
As I came through town I approached the Wigwam Motel.
I had seen that this was on the route and was tempted to spend the night in one. However I just took the pictures for the kids as they didn’t know that the animated movie “Cars” has this in it. They have some vintage autos parked around the place to give it flavor.
if the back seat of that wagon could talk...
Holbrook, Arizona was a western town and in the 1880′s, the frontiersmen were cowboys, cattle ranchers and railroaders who made Holbrook the center of ranch country.
The 1898 courthouse, now on the National Register of Historic Places, is the centerpiece of town.
In the 1930s through the 1950s, the “frontiersmen” were travelers of Route 66, known as The Mother Road and The Main Street of America. This narrow strip of asphalt was a symbol of hope for farmers fleeing the dust bowl and soldiers starting a new life after World War II.
Today Holbrook in my opinion the place is pretty much nowhere. Not classy enough or historic enough to get my attention but there are some great old adobe buildings that could be used for something if someone with vision saw fit. I was just not impressed.
I found the KOA and got settled in. I didn’t realize this till after when I looked al Alan’s blog, but he had spent time in the exact spot. Funny huh?
As I settled in and looked at the map I saw that there wasn’t much left of old Route 66 Towns and road left in Arizona. I have ridden this route from Albuquerque when I did my Iron But Ride last year so decided that I would go towards the border of AZ and NM and turn off and head back to Phoenix tomorrow.
I was pretty comfortable in my tent as it only got down to 40 degrees.
Settled in with all the comforts of home
The next morning I pushed off and just enjoyed the ride back down to Phoenix. The ride took me through the tops of the mountain ranges through the Tonto National Forrest and back down to the valley of the sun.
This ride was a ride of contrasts, vistas, history and some beautiful scenery. I will come back.
Next Route 66 blog…..New Mexico!
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